STUDY & ART

Shibuya walking tour:This was not my first time in Shibuya and I still managed to learn a lot. We began at the statue of Hachikō and proceeded to dive deeper into one of the densest areas of life on Earth; then we headed to Shibuya Stream. We had a chance to eat along the way during the Shibuya walking tour. I found many modern cafes and restaurants. This area is still under development, so further growth is expected in the future.

Lunch at Aoyama Kawakami-an:I loved this meal. Both the soba noodles and the hefty plate of tempura were tasty. My favorite part, though, came toward the end of the meal, when the soba was finished and the soba-yu came out in a beautiful pot. The concept of making a soup out of the remaining flavors was new to me, and interesting to learn about, but more importantly the mixture with soup, wasabi, green onion, and radish was delicious.

Nezu Museum:This is a beautiful museum from the outside. I loved the lines of bamboo that guide visitors in. Inside, its collection is impressive, but most notably of manageable size, especially for westerners stepping in for an introduction to eastern art. The rotating tea culture exhibit on the second floor is great too, but it was the lush gardens and tea houses at the back of the property that made this stop memorable. The matcha latte I had was the best I've ever tasted.

Dinner at Sakazuki-ya Kazuchi:The menu at Sakazuki-ya Kazuchi, where we ate on the second floor looking out on the streets of Asakusa, was full of surprises. My favorite plates included the oysters in soy sauce and garlic, the potato salad with radish, and the sashimi, all of which had the table talking about how tasty they were. I had a meal in a Japanese original manner, bending my legs into a sitting position on a tatami mat.

BOOK AND BED TOKYO ASAKUSA:Book & Bed Tokyo Asakusa is about a five minute walk from the Nakamise street leading up to Senso-ji, tucked into the sixth floor of a multi-purpose building and completely insulated from the tourist hive below. There was a wall of lockers at entrance, and I liked it because it seemed that I was entering a secret space. Here is a cool and affordable way to stay the night in Asakusa.

JAL Domestic flight:Getting the Toei to Haneda for the flight to Fukuoka was quick and easy, as was check-in inside the airy domestic terminal at HND. The boarding process was once again the most miraculous part of the journey. After less than two hours in the air, we touched down at Fukuoka Airport.

Nagahama Fish Market is famous for its pork bone ramen, but it is also home to huge and excellent fish market. The bridge over the fish market is open 24 hours a day and you can always see the auction from 3 am. If you happen to be in Fukuoka on the second Saturday of the month, part of the market is open to the general public, so be sure to stop by for the “Citizen's Thanks Day” event where you can buy fresh seafood.

Lunch at Ichiba-zushi Uotatsu :I could eat at this place every day. Sushi is my favorite food to eat in New York City, and this place made it clear to me how far superior Japanese sushi culture is to any other city, including my home town. Tasting the fish of the region, over rice, beside the sea and Fukuoka city’s three-building fish market, was a great first step into what was a new part of the country for me. Of the eight–-ten plates I finished, the toro and the amberjack were my favorites.

Hakata Machiya Folk Museum tour and craft activity:Magemono is one of the many handicraft traditions in Japan that are a source of regional pride. The Hakata Machiya Folk Museum and the workshop inside helped me connect the natural environment of Fukuoka with the human history in this place. Working with my hands to paint bent wood, with a local master on hand, was a neat experience.

The unadon was truly delicious, and the focus on the unagi throughout the meal offered a nice opportunity to drink and try a few complementary sakes, which I am still finding my taste for. The private-room, tatami-mat setting, and most of all the excellent unadon, made it a meal to remember.

THE RAIL KITCHEN CHIKUGO:Nishitetsu has done an excellent job with the Rail Kitchen Chikugo. The three-car train was visually beautiful inside and out, a point brought into focus by the other train that we watched pull out of Fukuoka station across the platform from our Rail Kitchen car. The red-and-white grid-style design work reminded me of an old American diner or fast food shack. The pairing of a coffee and hot dog was tasty on our brunch trip to Dazaifu.

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine:Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine is one of the most interesting shrines or places of worship that I have ever visited. Each time I have visited Japan I have found myself in appreciation of Shintoism and its shrines for their effectiveness in guiding my mind toward calm, and here again that was the case. I found myself massaged into contentment by the beautiful and ancient plum and camphor trees. My mind was cleared to focus on the story of Tenjin-sama(known as a deity of scholarship) and his importance to contemporary Japanese students. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine was great for exploring the grounds, watching a man perform magic, and eating sweets on the way in and out.

Lunch at Ichiran:A good bowl of ramen is probably my favorite thing to eat in the world. Lunch was a shining example of the tonkotsu style ramen that Fukuoka/Hakata is known for, and I was excited to try.Just steps from the Dazaifu rail station, this special Ichiran location serves ramen in five-sided bowls and delivers good luck to students. It easily folded into the tour, using Dazaifu station, and is a wonderful pairing with Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine.

Kyoho Winery :The property was impressive, but it was the story of the winery’s origins that I found most engaging. The story of post-WWII Japan is told by this winery’s existence. Anyone interested in deepening their understanding of the country and its relations with the U.S. should take a tour. The chance to taste unusual wines from fruits like blueberries and strawberries is just a bonus.

Dinner at Taisenkaku:When I arrived for dinner in Taisenkaku, I was rewarded with a filling and sophisticated meal. I was relaxed after dinner for rest of the night. The hot pot was my favorite part.

Accommodation (Taisenkaku):Taisenkaku hotel was a big and nice place to spend the night. My tatami-mat room was airy and private, with great views to wake up to. The highlight of Taisenkaku, however, are its onsens, which includes a jungle-style onsen draped in greenery with a waterslide. I checked out feeling invigorated.

Lunch at Ganso Hakata Mentaiju:I appreciated Ganso Hakata Mentaiju first and foremost for its significance to the people of Fukuoka city. We found a long line for a table around lunch time, and inside the first-floor wall was fully covered in messages from famous guests. I enjoyed the mentaiju and really enjoyed the mentaiko-based noodle soup, which I dumped lots of spice in. My meal was unique to the time and place, and was of a great quality. For extra measure, the restaurant is across from the ACROS Fukuoka Step Garden, which we climbed after eating.

ACROS Fukuoka Step Garden:I’ve never seen anything like the ACROS Fukuoka Step Garden. The park its sits next to is pleasant but small, which made it a surprising place for such an interesting project. The walk up to the top was easy, and the views from up there were also impressive on the sunny day we were granted.

Dinner at YOSHIMI BLUESKY:A fried pork sandwich on white bread was the last thing I ate in Fukuoka, at an airport restaurant, while preparing to miss Japan. It was maybe the best sandwich I’ve eaten this year. By this time I was not surprised to find such good food in an airport, unlikely as it would have been to stumble onto such an extraordinary meal in an America airport. I loved Japan again on this visit, above all for its food, its order, and in spite of its order its ability to deliver surprises.

In the wake of my fifth trip to Japan, I feel more than ever that this country is among my favorite destinations in the world. It was proven to me once again that Tokyo alone deserves a thousand visits. Each is a chance to eat new foods and walk new gardens, shrines, and streets; on this trip spending a satisfying day in the capital. The trip to Fukuoka from Tokyo was easy. Fukuoka city offered a slower version of urban Japan to explore with plenty of new food to try, nearly all of it delicious. Deeper into Fukuoka prefecture, into Kyushu, I saw yet another side of Japanese life, in touch with the natural world and our place in it.